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The Chlamys

It was the outer garment of  soldiers, travellers, youths, cavalrymen, Hermes. Its origins were possibly in Thessaly, where with the petassos, the wide-brimmed hat, it was worn by their famous cavalry. 

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It was another rectangular piece of cloth, similar to the himation but smaller, roughly 2 x 1 meters. The chlamys however had shorter and longer versions, some almost touching the ground. Its material was wool, of a thickness similar to the himation or some times a bit heavier.

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It was worn by folding the cloth in half and pinning it over the right shoulder with a round brooch or a perone (long pin). The material was gathered on the left arm to leave the hand exposed if needed, and the right hand was all exposed through the open side. This allowed the chlamys to be worn even in battle or on horseback without restriction.

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In Athens it was adopted by the youths while serving in the cavalry. It signified their young age as well as their status, so it was discarded when they came of age and their service ended. It was a general symbol of military commanders though, of kings and generals. 

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Some characters are typically depicted in ancient art with the Chlamys. Most notable is Hermes, the messenger of Gods, and thus the ultimate traveller. Other characters are Odysseus and Oedipus, both famous travellers. Heralds also wore the chlamys, perhaps as a reference to their protector Hermes, but also because they needed to travel fast.

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The chlamys is also a favourite garment in Macedonian art, and thus it was some times called a Macedonian garment, this however was probably a 4th century fashion rather than the true origins of the chlamys.

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Like the himation, the chlamys could be worn either alone or over a chitoniskos, a short chiton. It is a very comfortable piece of clothing, which despite its material can be worn pleasantly in summer, providing shade to the body while letting the air cool it. In winter it protects sufficiently in combination with other clothes for the body, head and legs, provided you are active.

 

The four corners were weighted down by small weights, perhaps bronze. They helped the material drape nicely and not get blown by the wind. The weights have to be light enough not to hurt the shins when you walk or run, which can be painful.

 

Some times the pin was pulled in the front of the neck, and the cloth was thrown to hang behind the shoulders like a cape. Other times the front wing was thrown back  diagonally over the chest to expose the left arm that was otherwise covered.

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The three most popular ways of wearing the chlamys.

The chlamys was not a heavily decorated item, although there are exceptions. In iconography the decorated strips are usually along the narrow sides, and less frequently along all four edges. No decoration at all is also very often the case.

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Here is the wearing of the chlamys explained.

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